chess

The homebrewers have spoken.  And when these maniacal brew geeks speak, you best listen.

For the 7th year in a row, members of the American Homebrewer’s Association cast their votes for their favorite beers.  For the judging, the only rule was that the beer has to be commercially available somewhere in the US.  The votes were tallied, and the top 50 beers were just announced in Zymurgy magazine.

This year, we witnessed a dethroning.  After topping the list for the past two years in a row, Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA was bested by Russian River Brewing’s Pliny the Elder (a double IPA).  By a mere TWO votes, Pliny took top honors and West Coast trumped the East Coast.  The irony?  Russian River did it on brewing equipment formerly owned by Dogfish.

As a proud homebrewer myself (which translates to a tiny NYC apartment crammed with carboys, buckets, bottles, thermometers, syphons and doo-dads galore), I took notice of this list.  I mean what better group to gauge the merits of the beer world than a bunch of beer-loving fanatics who can hold court for hours on specific gravity readings, diacetyl esters and how to replicate the pH of Munich’s water if you live in Des Moines.  And now, with no further delay, the results:

Top 50 Ranked Beers
1.    Russian River Pliny the Elder
2.    Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA
3.    Stone Arrogant Bastard
4.    Bell’s Two Hearted Ale
5.    Sierra Nevada Pale Ale
6.    Stone IPA
7.    Stone Ruination
8.    (Tie)

  • Anchor Steam
  • North Coast Old Rasputin

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poker

I can think of no better way to spend a lazy Saturday afternoon than around the poker table. Okay, scratch that, how about an afternoon around the poker table with good friends and cocktails? Now you’re talking…

And so it was, that we descended upon a friend’s apartment this weekend, our barbeque plans dashed by thunderstorms. We each brought various spirits, mixes and tools from our home bars with one mission: to create the ultimate lazy Saturday afternoon cocktails.
After a few well-intentioned attempts at libation glory and much elbow-bumping in the tiny NYC kitchen (not unlike most of the bars I’ve worked in), one cocktail rose to glory to become a crowd favorite. The Sweet Georgia Lemonade was passed around to oo’s and ah’s, eventually being batched up to fill a pitcher for everyone at the table. Shuffle and deal, suckas.

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Containing neither lemonade, nor anything relating to Georgia, the Sweet Georgia Lemonade packs a whallop and is not for the faint of heart. Named in honor of my buddy’s home state, it is stronger than the average cocktail and so tasty you’ll quickly find yourself reaching for more. But be warned ye fair poker players, go easy on this delicious devil because she packs a full-house punch.

Sweet Georgia Lemonade (makes 2 servings)

3 oz Rittenhouse Rye Whiskey

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“Add the bittering hops now!”

“Yes, Chef!”

“Stir, man, stir!”

“Yes, Chef!”

“Don’t let that malt extract boil over now; you’ll never get the bloody stuff off the stove!”

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Providencia (100% Monastrell), Bellum, Yecla, Spain, 2005

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michelada-beer-cocktail

Pink Panty Dropper.  Irish Steamroller.  Porch Crawler.

Hmm…A list of my nicknames from high school?  Well, no, (despite the sometimes aptness of the names); these are just a few of the many beer cocktails out there.  And with each passing day at the hands of clever mixologists, they’re getting more complex and taking their rightful place on cocktail lists.

A beer cocktail?  Say huh?  What the f is that?  Why would I want to ruin the taste of my delicious Michelob by adding anything to it?  Well don’t hold on to that can too tightly, because you’re going to start seeing more and more beer-based libations hitting the bar tops near you.  But they’re far from new…

The word “cocktail” originally was used to denote a drink made with distilled spirits, sugar, water and bitters.  These were the “classics”, and spawned a multitude of drinks playing off this basic recipe, like the Old Fashioned.  But today, the word cocktail has broadened and has come to mean any mixed drink made with alcohol.  (For those curious geeks who want to dig a bit deeper, the origins of the word itself are quite interesting).

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Riesling Auslese, Erdener Treppchen, C.H. Berres, 1996, Mosel, Germany

(8.0% alc)

mosel-castle2You want complexity?  You want range of flavor?  You want your tongue slapped around like a rag doll and taken on a journey?  Then you want some Riesling.  The noblest of the nobles that many still haven’t discovered, Rieslings can range from bone dry to unctiously, hypnotically sweet.  Running the gamet from petrol to honey to citrus flavors, they’re mostly lower-alcohol wines that keep you reaching for the glass and licking your lips like a fiend.

The smack of acidity that defines this godly grape makes it the perfect food wine, whether it be with your Moo Shoo Pork or with a packet of Saltine crackers when the cupboards are bare.  Let’s forego even explaining that all Rieslings are not sweet, because its been said again and again…oh, I guess I just said it again…

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So, buckle up, and lets jet to the famed vineyards of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in Germany where a whopping 66% of the vineyards are planted on hillsides of 60 degrees or more.  Hold onto your flugelhorn, because one misstep in these ancient vineyards, and you’ll wind up face-first in the Mosel River having crashed through rows of meticulously manicured, stake-trained vines.

Since 1510, Weingut C.H. Berres has been a family-run operation consisting of only 3.5 hectares (about 8.6 acres) of prized vineyards.  Hand-picked and selected with German precision, the grapes are weened from the famous Mosel slate that gives this region’s wines their unmistakable minerally, wet-stone characteristics.

ch-berres3Due to the extreme northern climate and the steep inclines, the Mosel gets about a third of the sunlight hours as Provence.  Bottom line:  its a fight for survival.  But its worth it, as nowhere else in the world is there such a concentration of prized vineyards.  Dear Lord, if I spent my life fighting in such extreme conditions to squeeze out a few grapes, you know they’d be precious.

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Ask an Insider is an interview series that talks to the people that make, serve, shake, sip, pump, pour, crush, distill, and bring life to this industry.  (For other interviews in the series, click the Ask an Insider tag at the bottom)

knife

I realized the other day that the words “Australian wine” have not ventured from my lips in months.  Wow.  It came as a shock that I can’t remember the last time I even talked about Australia wines (maybe its because I work with Paul Grieco whose establishments are not exactly swimming in California or Aussie wines).  This used to be a region at the forefront of my mind.  Last year, I was lucky enough to attend a lunch and drink a handful of vintages of Penfold’s Grange with winemaker Peter Gago.

penfolds-grange

So what’s happening in Australia?  I needed to find out.  I turned to a friend who I worked with in the trenches of a wine shop in Brooklyn.

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IPA, “Hoptical Illusion”, Bluepoint Brewing Company, Patchogue, New York

(6.8% Alc)

hoptical-illusion

I’m feeling the hops.  Like mad feeling the hops.  I dream of immersing myself in a McDonalds Playland where the balls have been replaced with barrels are barrels of hops.  And there must be some freak out there whose managed to stuff their pillows with hops (note: please send me one asap).  And for those who’ve been following my blog, you may have realized the extent of my obsession when you read my dissertation/diatribe/love letter/term paper to hops a couple of weeks ago.

Bottom line: of late, my taste is sliding that way…the way of the hops.

Recently, I found myself in the grocery store doing the beer wall scan; pondering the favorites and searching for the newbies…you know the drill.   There, amongst them, was this bottle with the brilliant, hippy, psychedelic label that entranced my eye. 

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dark-knight-robbers

A huge explosion goes off.  In a matter of minutes, countless barrels of wine are obliterated and left to soak into the floorboards.  A covert group has attacked a winery to send the world a message.  Whoa, wait…Is this the latest Jason Bourne movie?  Did you say “winery”?  Wine?!  What the hell is going on?

I found myself reading a recent NY Times article to learn that the beautiful South of France is now at the epicenter of a wine war.  A war complete with raiding terrorists, who are standing up for the authenticity of their wine by blowing up select wineries;  it seemed to be a classic underdog story of farmer versus factory.  A story about the ancient techniques of winemaking being overtaken by the dark forces of technology.  But turns out its not so simple…

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At the bulls-eye lies a wine style that many have dismissed, but many more have embraced (including myself):  Rosé.  So, how did this war begin, you ask, and just what is all the uproar about?

Well, the European Union is considering relaxing their regulations on just what constitutes the production and labeling of “Rosé”.  When I first heard this, I was pissed off.  One more example of capitalism rolling its slick-rimmed wheels over the little guy and tarnishing what made something special in the first place.  It seemed clear:  “EU, don’t fuck this up; keep Rosé pure!”  But then I thought more about it.  Is this a case of evil technology burying tradition? Or is it a case of misplaced regulation crimping on the winemaker’s art?  It’s an interesting debate…

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Blanc de Blanc Sparkling, “Sofia”, Francis Ford Coppola Estate, 2007, Monterey County
(12.6% abv)

coppola-sofia2Michael
My father went back, only this time with Luca Brasi.
Within an hour, he had a signed release for a certified check of $1000.

Kay Adams
How did he do that?

Michael
My father made him an offer he couldn’t refuse.

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handful-of-hops

You want terroir in your beer? You want the taste of the earth from which it came from? Some will say that wine grapes are the true reflection of the land from which they came.  And they’re right: a Meursault is never gonna taste like a Chardonnay from Sonoma. The soil is different, the weather is different, the drainage of the earth, the pruning techniques of the vine, and even the underwear worn by the winemaker all come into play. But beer isn’t a reflection of anywhere specific and can be made anywhere, right? It isn’t connected with its environment, right?  I claim it is.  And that’s because of one thing: hops.

oktoberfest-girl

Hops are the often overlooked lifeblood of a beer. They are the seasoning that not only gives a beer its particular style, but also the driving engine for its aroma and bittering characteristics. But we don’t like bitter things! Well, on the contrary, my friend, we certainly do! In fact, we love em. We need balance. Think peanut butter and jelly with its sweet/salty opposition. Or a package of Sour Patch Kids, with their opposing sweet/sour profile that keeps our tongues doing a violent dance of stimulation. We crave that teeter- totter. Its what makes good food great, good wines great, and good beers even better. With beer, its the balance of sweet/bitter that keeps us licking our lips and headed for another sip. The sweetness of the malts need to be balanced by the bitterness of the hops.  Balance, balance, balance.  The key to life, really…

hop drawing

But what the hell are hops? We’ve all heard the name tossed around in tv commercials, and we know they’re in our beers for some reason, but why? Simply, hops are the female flower cones of the hop plant (Humulus Lupulus) which is part of the family Cannabaceae. For those who this name may sound familiar to, yes, they are a relative of the Cannabis (hemp) plant, and do have a very similar appearance and aroma to the bags of Humbolt-County’s-finest that your cousin Eddie sends you every couple of months.

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old-peculiar-the-legendOld Ale, Theakston, Old Peculiar The Legend, Masham, North Yorkshire, UK

(5.6% Alc abv)

Brewed with Fuggle hops and from a long tradition, Theakston’s Old Peculier Ale “The Legend” is a little deceiving. It’s dark, squat brown bottle sits like a tank looking back at me. Its steely eyes watching my every move. The beer is delicious and I found I had to find a new reference because the color is dark, and could be confused for a stout by looks alone, but not in the flavor. It takes you by surprise. But why?

Throughout the last 180 years, Theakston has been brewing beers in Masham, a town of just over 1200 people in the North Yorkshire area of England. But that is just the mere tip of the iceberg, as the town’s history goes back far enough to reveal the owners of the land having been rescued by the Knight’s Templar almost 900 years ago. But thats for another day…

The Old Peculiar is what’s known as an “Old Ale“, a name often not touted around my world, at least. Its kind of an interesting process where the beer is brewed at lower temperatures, yielding less sugar and more dextrin (a carbohydrate); normally, brewing is done at high temperatures, resulting in more sugars and less dextrin. The high levels of dextrin give a fuller body and leaves the beer with a slight acid zip that leaves you refreshed.

With subtle aromatics, an almost red fruit character on the nose, and great complexity in the finish. Rich in malt and with that classic spicy Fuggal hop flavor I like in my English beers.

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In a land far, far away lies a tiny nook, a mere stitch in the massive quilt of the wine world.  Tucked nearly out-of-sight amongst the steep valleys above France’s Rhône River, the sound of its name conjures up a land far from prying eyes and stretch limos of gawking tourists, its mere mention eliciting a hushed nod of adoration from the most die-hard wine lovers.  Its name is Côte-Rôtie, and it is a special land where one grape reigns supreme.  It is in fact, one of the most hallowed homes for the Syrah grape.  If one were to utter the phrase “Yellow Tail Shiraz” in this area, it just may result in an ancient, rusty shotgun blast to the kneecaps.

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Is it the most perfect match of grape and soil, wind and sunshine, sweat and devotion?  Quite possibly.  For no wine quite elicits the peppery aliveness, the funkiness, the precision and complexity of a Côte-Rôtie.  And this from a land made up of less than 500 acres, its best vineyards meticulously planted up hillsides approaching 60 degrees of incline.  It is a mere postage stamp in the broader Rhône Valley of Southern France.  You won’t find a mechanical harvester here because Mother Nature won’t allow it.  Instead, the workers brave the steep hills to bring the grapes down in small baskets, or form a human chain to guide them meticulously down from their sun-drenched perches far above the valley floor.

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Côte-Rôtie lies at the top of the Northern Rhône Valley.  The area had gone out of fashion, only to rise again in the last 35 years because of an infusion of modern winemaking techniques combined with those of the past like the use of small, new oak barrels.  By law, vignerons are allowed to blend in 20% Viognier (a white grape), but you will rarely find anyone using more than 5%, and this because it not only adds aroma to the wine, but somehow, somewhere, the Viognier vines found themselves scattered in miniscule specks throughout the patches of Syrah.  It’s as if God had merely sprinkled a couple grains of salt into his fields of pepper scattered across the hillsides.

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john-belushiIn Roman times, the ultimate show of power was to own a vineyard. In fact, one of the highest honors possible was for the Emperor himself to prepare you one–actually planting and pruning with his own two hands. Forget nude community baths or prized flocks of sheep, if the King throws a few rows of Sangiovese vines in my backyard, my neighbors will never again scoff when they ride by on their ox cart.

Maybe that’s the answer:  President Obama needs to go on a vine-planting world tour, stopping at every international hot spot to get down on bended knee and dig around in the dirt with the leaders of the world.  I find it hard to fathom that Kim Jong Il would have any interest in firing off a Taepo-Dong missile after sipping on Sassicaia and slurping down a bowl of homemade pasta sprinkled in white truffles and parmesan cheese.  But I digress…

Italy: Twenty distinct wine regions.  More than 1,000 native grape varietals.  And with some wines named by region, others by grape, some by grape and region, and others seemingly pulled out of Uncle Luigi’s hat, it can get quite confusing.  Well, my friends, in a country covered in close to 900,000 individual vineyards, and nearly every hill, mountain and valley covered in vines that may have been introduced thousands of years ago, it pays to take a step back and tip to your hat to the prowess that is Italian wine. From a rustic, earth driven, high-alcohol Primitivo from the south to a vibrant, mouth-watering Prosecco in the north, the sheer range of grapes and wine styles is staggering.

Now, about that vineyard in my backyard; when can I set up a time for Michelle and Barack to plant a couple of Dolcetto vines on my fifth floor fire escape?

A 30-second quiz for you.  How well do you know Italian wines and regions?

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(Originally posted as a guest article on Hop Talk)
battle_of_bosworth

Take your filthy hands off my beer can!

Within the wine, beer and spirits world, passions run deep.  And so do the divisions.  Whether it is beer vs. wine, red vs. white, or vodka vs. bourbon, the warring camps of devotees are steadfast and thirsty for the other’s blood.  Whether it is double- vs. triple-distilled, screw cap vs. cork, or old world vs. new world, you’re going to get some pretty set opinions.  “A screw cap on my wine?  I ought a bust you in the lip and drown you in a vat of Yellow Tail Shiraz!”  Well, one of the most famous is the can vs bottle division, but the lines are being redrawn.  Change in the beer world is coming…. you afraid of the can?  Well, my friend, it may be time to look again.

So often the choices we make in what we drink tell us a lot about the person.  Like wearing an Armani suit, strutting around with a bottle of Sam Adams Utopia is an indicator of class, style and attitude.  I remember when just the sight of my bottles of microbrew was called out as being “fancy”, and I was regularly taunted by can-wielding upperclassmen.  And of course in this case, “fancy” meant arrogant, or high-falutant, like I was some sort of beer dandy or something.  Well, looks who laughing now, you Schlitz-drinkin d-bags…and no, you can’t have a bottle of my homebrew.  And now, the door has opened even further and we’re seeing the unthinkable:  microbrews in cans.  What the f?  A can?!  “But only swill comes out of a can”.  “Only those that care nothing about their beer would disgrace it with such a filthy vessel”, the naysayers rally.  And you’d be surprised just who is saying such things….

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A few years ago, Jim Koch of Boston Beer Company (Samuel Adams) shocked the beer world with his blatant disregard of the can. In 2005, he released what he called the “Beer Drinkers Bill of Rights” to ensure better beer for one and all, and stated, “”Beer shall be offered in bottles, not cans, so that no brew is jeopardized with the taste of metal.”  Uproar ensued in the microbrew community, especially at my beloved Oskar Blues Brewery in Lyons, Colorado where they have taken can technology to new heights and are the pioneers in leading the movement away from the beloved bottle.

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