David & Goliath

Owning a microbrewery is a labor of love.  Often times, the genesis is a mad homebrewer’s hobby growing so big that their basement, kitchen, garage and children’s closets become so clogged with gear that they HAVE to go pro.

This is what happened to Matt and Renee Nadeau who are about to celebrate the tenth anniversary of Rock Art Brewery.  But now they’re being attacked.

rock_art_logo(Personally, as a homebrewer living in a tiny one- bedroom apartment in Queens, it has certainly been a challenge and I can tell you that one corner of our bedroom is so overloaded with hoses, brushes, buckets and tools that were my wife not so in love with the beer, they’d end up on the curb for NYC’s finest to haul off.  But enough about me…)

This story is about a battle that’s brewing in the cozy state of Vermont.  And its gonna be a long and costly one.  A classic tale of corporate greed and the power of the dollar squashing the little guy.  The villian in this story?  Monster Energy Drinks.  But wait, you ask, what the hell does Monster want with a small microbrewery in Vermont?

monster_energy-LOGOWell, in a stroke of pure asinine genius, the corporate wizards at Monster have decided that the beer being brewed in Vermont under the name “Vermonster” may cause confusion in buyers and be a threat to their billion-dollar enterprise.  What the f*c%?!!

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English Pale Ale, Blandford Fly, Badger Brewery, Hall and Woodhouse, Dorset, England

(5.2% Alc)

Badger Beers and Cider for 2008In the small, sleepy town of Blandford Forum in southern England, a tiny predator lurks at the banks of the River Stour.

Rumors abound as to its actual size; some claim it is mere millimeters, while others claim it is the size of a pterodactyl.  But all can agree on on one thing:  the bite from the Blandford Fly is vicious, leading to fever and swelling.  The cure?  Beer, of course.

Local, Nick Malden (whom I met while scuba diving in Costa Rica where we were both honeymooning), tells this account:

Feeding Mosquito“Playing in fields abutting the Stour River as a child,  rumours periodically resurfaced about the dreaded Blandford Fly or “Blanny bomber” as it was known to us.  No one quite knew what they looked like, but their bites were real enough and the stuff of legend – I can still picture a blister the size of a dinner plate on a neighbour’s leg.  I pictured them as huge mutated crane flies with savage, blood-smeared proboscises”.

For some reason, the fly was attracted to the sweet flesh of the local housewives and, as we all know, you don’t mess with an English mummy…especially not one covered in welts.

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Cabernet Sauvignon, Cape Winemakers Guild, Kanonkop, 1997, Stellenbosch

(14% Alc)

YodaWhat if Yoda made wine?  And what if instead of focusing on intergalactic peace, the Jedis gathered to taste through barrels of Pinotage and hammer out the intricacies of pruning and soil characteristics?

And what if after hours of intense debate, they chose their favorite wine from that year’s vintage to represent them all?

Well, it does happen…and once a year.  But its not in Tatooine where you’d suspect, but in the land of South Africa.  I present to you: the Cape Winemakers Guild.

South-Africa-MapOnce a massive player on the world stage (the Constantia Muscat-based dessert wines were once considered the finest in the world), South Africa’s wines fell into the abyss for much of the 20th century.  Beginning in the 1980’s, however, they began to rise triumphantly again and have continued their steady march to today.

Now firmly rooted amongst the best in the world, South Africa is one of those wine regions that produces great quality at killer prices.

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GABF logo 2It’s concluded.  For the 27th year in a row, the Great American Beer Festival overtook Denver in sudsy force.

Although not in attendance myself, nor having ever seen the madness firsthand (insert mini violin here), I’m always amazed by the festival statistics because they’re just too damn staggering to believe.  Plus, Colorado is my home state and their beers nursed me into adulthood, so I feel the same affinity for this event as a babe does to its mother’s teet.

GABF crowdI can only imagine that the whole 3-day affair is akin to a Monster Truck Rally/Beer Rodeo/Science Expo/Mardi Gras Blowout.  And lo and behold, Colorado killed it, being the state to receive the most medals for its beers and brewers.

The GABF is the largest commercial beer competition in the world.  78 beer categories are set up  and brewers large and small submit their finest to be judged by a crack crew of 132 international beer judges from 10 countries.  This year, the judges had their task cut out for themselves as there were a whopping 3,308 entries (enough beer to sustain an entire brigade of Belgian monks for three months—well, give or take a day or two).

Colorado and California are the top dogs to beat and this year was no exception.  The top 5 winning states were:

  • Colorado (45 medals)Photo by Jason E. Kaplan
  • California (39 medals)
  • Oregon (22 medals)
  • Washington (13 medals
  • Pennsylvania (12 medals)

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autumn in the forestIts about that time.  Spices, baby, spices.  As the mercury begins to drop, I always become strangely nostalgic.  Oh, Fall, you mischevious devil.  How do I count the ways I love you?  And oh, how you taunt my beer glass with your seasonal delights.

I popped into my local store a couple of weeks back and found a race in my heart as I saw the Oktoberfest beers hitting the shelf.  Hells yeah.  Bring me a sweet, sweet Marzen and let me crack one open under a Sycamore tree while zoning out on the changing colors of the leaves.

Too good to be trueAlmost a year ago, one of the first pieces I wrote with a vengeance was about the origins of Oktoberfest and the beer styles associated with it.

But this piece is about the Fall Seasonal beers Marzens, Pumpkin Ales and Fresh Hopped IPAs.  Look out, because we’re starting to see beer labels emblazoned with jack-o-lanterns, witches and the obligatory ghouls and goblins.

And underneath these ridiculous labels, we’re talking tasty beers.  Fall just tastes good.  The air goes crisp, the sun sets earlier and the wind hints at the winter lurking on the far horizon.  Let’s break em down…

“Marzen” is the German word for “March” and is the month in which these lagers are brewed.  Originating sometime before the 16th century, this style of beer would sit in cold storage for six months before being opened at the start of the Fall celebrations.  But why so far in advance, you ask?

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Pineau d’Aunis, Adonis, La Grapperie, 2005, Loire Valley

(13% Alc)

Reach out and touch meI’ve always liked the freaks, the misfits, those that are labeled “quirky”.  They’re not easily categorized and usually take some time to understand.

As wine consumers, we swim in a sea of decently made, yet entirely forgettable wine.  But sometimes a wine grabs you by the nuts and the mind at the same time.  A perfect clash of the visceral and the intellectual crashing together in a cataclysmic explosion.  And for a moment, you’re left speechless.

And so it was that I became haunted and couldn’t get this damn wine out of my mind.  It was like nothing I’d ever tasted made from a grape I’d never heard of:  Pineau d’Aunis (“Pee-no Doh-nee”).

pineau-daunis

Pineau d'Aunis Grapes

A native red grape to the Loire Valley, Pineau d’Aunis is known locally as “Chenin Noir”, and was once popular in the medieval times by English royalty, being a favorite of Henry Plantaganet.

Now there are some name similarities you’re seeing, but don’t get ahead of yourself now.  Neither belonging to the Pinot family, nor any relation to Chenin Blanc, she is a grape that stands in her own camp.  And it’s a bizarre camp; no doubt inhabited by all manner of circus freak and castaway that couldn’t be understood by the masses.  Sadly, the Pineau d’Aunis grape has fallen from grace.  Once planted all around the Anjou and Touraine region, the vines have mostly been ripped out to make way for the mainstream grapes, thus pushing her bizarre delights even further from the limelight.

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batman-gotham_l

DC Comics

Fire up the bat signal, commissioner!  We’re being invaded by an army of citrusy hops and specialty malts this city has never seen the likes of!  Rouse Batman from his cave, cause NY Craft Beer Week begins today and there’s no turning back!

As I write this, the taps are being screwed on, the glasses are being polished, the cask ales are being tapped, and the beer is about to start flowing through the streets of our fair Gotham.  Hot damn, I say.  This place used to be a waste land for beer lovers.  When I moved here nine years ago, looking at the beer selections depressed me.  Opening up my menu at a restaurant left me flummoxed.  How the hell could such a progressive city be so far out of tune?

Ah, but how times change.  Today, you’d be hard pressed to go into a corner store and not spot a jacked-up IPA from a local brewery or a Belgian beauty looking back at you.  Not to mention, the restaurant scene has become a Mecca for a beer lover looking to pair some Saison with spicy Vindaloo.  And so, today, my friends, the jackals of beer pleasure are being set free.

ny craft beer week

Just check out these stats:  83 bars, over 30 restaurants and over 20 breweries are in on the action.  How does it work?  Visit www.NYCBeerWeek.com, purchase yourself a “passport” for $35 and hit the streets.

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winebloggers conference

Look ma, I won me an award!  And its drinkable!

I’m stoked to announce that my piece entitled “Portugal: the Land that Time Forgot” has been selected as a second place winner for the European Wine Blogger’s Conference awards.  Looks like my time traipsing through the streets of Europe with a backpack on finally paid off in the form of a tasty case of Portuguese wine coming to my doorstep.

Organized by Catavino, Viniportugal and Dunn Robbins, events were held in NYC and California to reach out to bloggers and spread the word about the vinous delights coming out of Portugal.  It was a pretty great way to leverage social networking, rally the blogosphere and a great excuse to gather a bunch of wine geeks under one roof for some joyous carousing.  Afterwards, bloggers submitted pieces for a contest to win a trip to Portugal and the rest is history.

All that being said, I’m excited to be amongst a great group of winners, so be sure to check out their pieces….oh, and party at my place.  I’ll keep a bottle open for you…

Ask an Insider is an interview series that talks to the people that make, serve, shake, sip, pump, pour, crush, distill, and bring life to this industry.  (For other interviews in the series, click the Ask an Insider tag at the bottom)

Brewery

There are many professions that kids consider downright uncool.  “What’s your dad do?  Oh, he’s a middle manager for a bank?  Lame.  I’m gonna be an astronaut”.  “Yours is a teacher?  Yuck!  I’m gonna be a millionaire in Dubai” (yes, times have changed).

But when I was a kid and heard that my best friend’s dad was a brewer at Anheuser-Busch, I thought it was pretty damn cool.  I’d been on their brewery tour and seen the shiny equipment, the fancy conveyer belts and the endless bottles whizzing by at light-speed.  Plus, did he get to ride the Clydesdales?!

Budweiser clydesdales

Well, I never really knew exactly what he did, and so after a recent trip of his to NYC where I grilled him about my home brewing techniques, I thought it was time to ask him.

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Marinha Cove

From the moment my foot hit the tarmac upon debarking from the plane, I knew I was in a different world.  The warm Portuguese sun hit me square in the face and I had one of those palpable moments in life that you never forget.  I literally felt the sands of time slow down, forcing me to recalibrate to a pace slower and fuller than ever I had encountered.

Portugal marches by its own drum and has stayed true to its rich past while aligning itself with the modern world.  It has taken the slow road, honoring tradition over technology, and it has paid off.

We’ve all heard of fortified Port wine and know it’s highly prized by collectors.  But there has been a groundswell over the last decade.  In a country best known for only one style of wine, a quiet renaissance has been taking place behind the scenes.  Driven by experimentation, a wash of investment from its neighbors and true devotion to the grape, Portuguese winemakers have gotten savvy.  The still wines now being produced can be hypnotically complex and, because they are under-the-radar, with prices that are dirt-cheap…and this is some prized dirt, let me tell you.

portugal map

At a recent tasting at Aldea Restaurant organized for a group of NY bloggers (shout out to you all), Ryan and Gabriella Opaz and the team from ViniPortugal and Catavino poured a selection of wines that ran the gamut from elegant to bold, simple to complex, and reminded us of what a fascinating wine region Portugal is and the trailblazers who are driving its renaissance.

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Potato

I’m a sucker for all things terroir-driven. If you’ve read my scribblings previously, you’ll know I’ve geeked out on the origins of hops, the tell-tale slate of Mosel Rieslings and the bizarre wines of Jura.

To me there is something beautiful about a grape being grown a world away and ending up as wine in my glass. Or a rare German hop variety ending up as lager in my stein. And no one will dispute that a single-malt scotch can never be replicated in a processing plant in Iowa.

But we’ve seen time and time again how a unique product is blown out on a mass scale only to lose touch with the land it came from.  So it was that I was a bit skeptical when a friend turned me on to Karlssons Gold Vodka.

karlssons_vodka

“But I’m not a vodka fan,” I protested. “Why would I drink something that is odorless and flavorless, that’s had the living soul distilled out of it again and again?”

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Bourgueil (100% Cabernet Franc), Les Galichets, C&P Breton, 2007, Loire Valley

(12% alc)

tour de france

I found myself sipping on this wine last week and was reminded how hypnotic Cabernet Franc can be.  Fragrant and juicy with crisp acidity, it is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon in other wine regions, but in Bourgueil (pronounced “boor-geye”) it is king and stands alone.

That night, I switched on the TV and was riveted by the sight of the Tour de France rolling through the Loire Valley.  As the riders zipped through Sancerre (the famed white wine appellation that many consider the standard bearer for Sauvignon Blanc), I was struck by the image of a 14th century castle coming face to face with modern man.  Surrounded by rows of meticulously manicured vines, the scene was suddenly pierced by colorful jerseys zipping by the castle gates on newfangled carbon fiber machines.  In a flash, the pack of riders was gone, and life returned to normal in a land that time seems to have forgotten, leaving its grapes just dangling in the breeze.  Wow.  What a special race this is…and what a mind-bogglingly gorgeous area.

Chateau de Chenonceau

The Loire Valley is one of the largest wine regions in France, and certainly its most diverse.  From dry to sweet, still to sparkling, light to full, white to red to rose, there is nothing a wine lover can’t find here.  While you may know the famous appellations like Poilly-Fumé, Sancerre or Chinon, the charms of the Loire are endless.  Terroir-driven reds that boggle the senses and whites that grab you by the handlebars and nearly throw you off a cliff with their complexity.  With over 50 appellations, you could essentially ride your bike along the Loire River for the next five years and still only crack the surface of this region.  I say we all rent a chateau, slap on the lycra and get our party on at the banks of the Loire (just don’t mess with the suit of armor near the castle’s front gate, you drunken winos; it’s an antique for God’s sake). Continue Reading »

CatcherLabelWeb

Homebrewing is sort of like parenting…  Watching the little tyke evolve from the ornery days of vicious fermentation may just be akin to the terrible two’s where your kid would rather nash at your arm than peacefully eat his or her porridge.

And like a good parent, a brewer must give the beer proper temperatures to evolve (a challenge in my Queens apartment that can often feel like a grungy, humid cantina in Cuba where you’ve been tied up in the back room over a poker game dispute and the one lone ceiling fan is moving so slow it only serves as a whirling, hypnotic tease above you—just me?), racking the beer off its leftover yeasts and trub is akin to changing diapers, and bottling and labeling is akin to sending that child off to college, hoping they return as upstanding citizens worthy of finally impressing your skeptical friends.

Disturbedkid

I’ll tell you what, I was a hyperactive little demon child and it took me a bit longer to evolve…I guess that would be like a Belgian Saison that must be bottle-conditioned for 2-4 months, as opposed to the normal 2-4 weeks.  Okay, it’s official, if I was a beer, I’d be a wild Farmhouse Saison Ale.  Tempermental in its development, but once there, damn smooth and a perfect companion on a hot summer’s day…

It is with great pleasure that I announce two things:  one, the arrival of our latest beer, the Catcher in the Rye.  And secondly, that I announce Matt Rogers, the eccentric, big-hearted, master-of-the-pen from Chattanooga as the winner of our unofficial Name-That-Homebrew Contest.  His submission of Catcher in the Rye was seemingly simple at first, but began to grow on me to become something much deeper (just like the resulting beer, I hope…she’s still at college now, only on her second week of bottle conditioning, and hopefully not spending too much time at the Sigma Alpha Epsilon frat house). Continue Reading »

space needle

Seattle rules.  For an NYC boy like me to get to see more than a sliver of the sky at a time, it’s a pleasure, but to see the entire sky at once was beyond therapeutic.  And the sheer amount of art?  Whoa.  I thought the East Village was artsy, but its got nothing on Seattle, where every direction you look, art awaits.  A bus stop?  No, to Seattle, it’s a place to put poetry and paintings on four walls where a bus just happens to pick people up.  The neighborhoods are dripping with character, and the people are friendly and generous, with a pre-requisite to live there being at least one appendage entirely covered in tattoos.  An arm?  Nope, a canvas for a slew of tats.

Though Washington puts out some incredible wines, this trip was all about beer. A recent inductee to the dark arts of homebrewing, my brother Joe and I will riff for hours on what our favorite microbreweries are doing (I guess this is what growing up in Fort Collins, Colorado does to you; they should just give you an Odell’s pint glass when you’re born at Poudre Valley Hospital because you will no doubt be spoiled by loads of amazing beer by the time you reach high school graduation. The drinking age in Colorado is 16, right?)

Based on my recent posting of the Zymurgy Top 50 Beers chosen by homebrewers, we were on a mission to taste the beers not available to us in our fair Gotham (seriously Odells and New Belgium, get your asses out here!). First on our list was the chart-topper, Pliny the Elder, which was so damn tasty, we were reduced to babies screaming for their bottles, chanting: “Pliny! Pliny! Pliny!” And in a city where a beautiful thing exists called the Schooner (6 oz glass), we sampled a plethora of beers and felt like kids in a candy shop.  Well, intoxicated kids in a candy shop.

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Ploussard, La Chamade, A&P Bornard, Arbois, France, 2006

(13.5% Alc)

barton-fink-write3

Barton Fink is one of my favorite movies.  I first saw it when I was fifteen, and remember it vividly.  It was like no other movie I’d ever seen: complex, dark, and quirky with strange characters (a neurotic NY playwright who moves to LA to write a wrestling film and a jovial insurance salesman turned serial killer), a bizarre plotline (writer’s block gone bad in a deserted hotel) and camera angles that surprised at every turn (see pic above).  Well, last week, I discovered my Barton Fink of wine: the region of Jura and the Ploussard grape.  And now, everything’s changed.

arbois-jura-map

The region of Jura is not a familiar one, and is steeped in mystery and ancient winemaking techniques. Lying in the shadow of Burgundy, it is a region tucked away on the eastern flank of France between Burgundy and Switzerland. With similar climate and soils to Burgundy, it’s unique because of its proximity to the Jura Mountains, which bring harsh winters and relative isolation. Mostly known for its whacky, oxidized whites called vin jaune, the wines from Jura (red, white and rosé) are quirky and play by their own rules like Joel and Ethan Coen, the creators of Barton Fink. Common white grapes include Savignin and Chardonnay, while red grapes include Ploussard and Trousseau, not exactly wines found on the shelf next to the Kendall Jackson.  In fact, you might not find them on the shelves at all.

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