Here once stood the great Chateau Lafite...

It was the shot heard round the world.  Yesterday, Eric Asimov of the NY Times wrote an article that sent shock waves through Bordeaux.  The message:  you’re soon to be on life support.

I feel inclined to write as Paul Grieco, our fearless leader, was pictured in the piece and our wine programs at Hearth and Terroir were discussed.  It was a simple article and yet a brilliant one.

I would have killed to be a fly yesterday on the Gironde River to see the panicked look on the faces of the Chateaux owners as they sipped espressos and overlooked their empires.  Or at least, I hope they were panicked…if the entire Bordelais wine industry isn’t discussing Mr Asimov’s article, then they may be more screwed that they can possibly imagine.

You see, Bordeaux and its wines are falling prey to a massive marketing failure.  They have effectively cut themselves off from the new generations of sommeliers, wine geeks and the average consumer.

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Photo courtesy of the El Dorado Cocktail Lounge

Fizzle my schnizzle!  Flip my Rick!  Sling my ding!  The Manhattan Cocktail Classic comes to town, kids!

No more Jager shots!

Thats right, fans of the coupe glass.  New York’s first ever multi-day event celebrating the lore, the craft and the rich history of the cocktail kicks off tonight.   Five wondrous days of booze exploration, appreciation and fascination is upon us .

And just like the Burning Man Fesival culminates in a massive Pagan ritual where a multi-storied sculpture of straw is lit on fire, we will use flamethrowers to melt the largest Jagermeister ice luge ever created in defiance of artificial products and mediocrity in our libations.

Tonight, at The New York Public Library, the Gala kicks off at 9:00 pm.  (My guess is not only will there be incredible concoctions to sip, but a Guinness World Record will be set for the “Most handlebar moustaches, vests and plaid pants found under one roof since 1896”).

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Paul Grieco attacks an adoring fan (photo by Kat Kinsman)

On Monday, Lincoln Center was descended upon by the food & beverage community who harbored an insatiable hunger and thirst.    

Between the number of kegs cashed, martinis housed, Champagne guzzled and bites of food gobbled up, if one were to convert the ounces of alcohol and butter consumed to kilowatts, you could have lit the Empire State Building for 48 hours.

The Rat Pack: Matt Stinton (Beverage Director), myself and Jordan Frosolone (Chef de Cuisine) (photo by Kat Kinsman)

The James Beard Awards 2010 came and went in a flurry of tuxedos, ball gowns, facial tucks and a sea of plastic appetizer plates. 

It was a night coupled with a gruelingly long ceremony honoring every facet of the food and beverage industry along with a special Who’s Who of industry royalty who invade Lincoln Center with a desire to reconnect with friends and devour bite-sized morsels like they were last nib-lets of food on the planet (read: “like savages”).    

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Fun for the whole family!

Year: 2050

“Grandpa, what’s that?”

“Well, that’s a wine bottle, honey”

“A what?”

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The Brewer’s Association is a top-secret society composed of beer ninjas, homebrewing warlocks and malt-driven shapeshifters.  Their nerve center/elite training grounds are rumored to be located in an underground bunker some 20 stories below the idyllic streets of Boulder, Colorado. 

For those of us in the beer community, their word is gold.  And, once again, the association has spoken.  With mega-computers and high-speed microprocessors running 24 hours a day, they are uniquely tapped into the craft beer cerebral cortex of the US and capable of compiling valuable data at break-neck speed. 

"Ah, gee! Oskar Blues made the list!"

Just last week, they released their much-anticipated list of the “2009 Top 50 Craft Breweries” which I received like Charlie and his golden ticket to the Chocolate Factory.  I printed the list, folded it up with the lightest of touches (so as not to disturb its prized contents) and carried it to my secret place where I could unfold it and digest it without interruption. 

“Craft breweries” are classified by those having production levels of less than 2 million barrels a year.  So, with no further adieu, the Top 50 Craft Breweries of 2009:  Continue Reading »

Moth hunter in the vineyards of Napa

There goes one!  Stop it from procreating!  That fucking moth could be the end of us all!

Napa Valley is under siege.  And I don’t mean from gas-guzzling Escalades zipping up and down Highway 29 or from elite Parisian special forces who’ve been sent to steal trade secrets from Mondavi.  No, my friends, by a simple moth known as the European Grapevine moth.

But in the lucrative world of wine, this predator is being hunted down with a vengeance by the brightest agricultural minds the world has to offer.   And how this moth came to be found in the heart of Napa may be the dirtiest secret of all…

Just like the jihadists being hunted by the Green Beret’s night-vision goggles and unmanned drones flown out of Nevada with predator missiles, no resources are being spared to wipe out this pin-headed foe.

Moth larvae feasting on Napa's finest

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After countless months of planning, dreaming and scheaming, the doors have opened at Terroir | Tribeca.  She’s a stunning belle of the highest caliber.  And she’s gonna take NYC by force.  A force built on passion, irreverence and a commitment to bone-numbingly high standards.

The beer list is my baby.  A collection of my international favorites from around the globe, representing as many of the craft beer havens and local producers as possible.  We ain’t Rattle ‘N’ Hum with its staggering 23 casks, 40 taps and over 100 bottles.  We’re the little engine that could, damnit, and we’ll show you a world of heightened hospitality and a haven of the finest food and drink that will make your head spin with delight and your knickers drop to the floor.

Ladies and gentleman, I’m proud to announce the opening beer list at Terroir | Tribeca:

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I wonder how long it would take me to consume a beer that’s five stories high?  A month?  A year?  A lifetime?  Maybe I’d get halfway through, swear off beer forever and switch to Riesling…

In the dead of winter of 2009, Stella Artois embarked on The Ritual Project high above the streets of NYC.  (Now, granted I’m not a huge Stella advocate.  In fact, its been years since I’ve purchased one).  But enough about my own tastes because I was definitely impressed by this campaign.

Stella Artois commissioned a group of NYC sign painters (Sky High Murals) to paint the entire 9-step Belgian Pouring Ritual, step by step.  Over 21 days, a documentary crew created a stop-motion film of the painting of the 20-50 foot wall.

And being that a good friend of mine, Chris O’Connor is a master of the stop-motion process (check out: The Amazing Adventures of Captain Chuck), I was intrigued.

I was contacted by Angela Bruno from the documentary crew about the project and was soon swept up in the painter’s world.  Their soon-to-be-released documentary called “Up There” profiles the art form of mural painting which is a dying one that requires incredible patience and skill. Continue Reading »

Calling all East Coast brew geeks!  It’s coming.  A day of sun-soaked, beer-drizzled, hop-tinged, fun-loving craft beer worship is coming soon.  And the only way to get there?  By boat.

That’s right, kids, on Saturday, June 19th, Governor’s Island is going to be overran by beer hounds.  And I don’t mean the Pabst-swilling, Coors Light-guzzling kind.  Nope, I mean the kind that pair their SPF ratings with their IBU rankings.  The kind that relish in flavor and artisan care.  The kind that you want to hang with!  And, really, where else would you put us all on a Saturday afternoon then on our own frickin island?

I will be there leading my fellow cohorts on the Brewfest Water Taxi in stunning renditions of Kumbaya and 99 Bottles of Beer as we approach Craft Beer Island.  If my singing alone isn’t enough to entice you, maybe this will:

  • More than 300 craft beers
  • 100 NY State, East Coast, National and International breweries
  • Live music from NY State Bands
  • Transportation:  Brewfest water taxis leaving from Manhattan, Brooklyn and New Jersey, as well as the Governor’s Island Ferry
  • Elephant races and brewmaster tossing (okay, no elephants, but I may toss a brewmaster in the East River)
  • Tickets: $55 (including transportation) or $75 for the Connoisseurs Session (early admission and access to specialty suds)

Visit nybrewfest.com for more information and to purchase tickets (as well as to demand elephant racing)

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Leflaive.  Palacios.  Joly.  DRC.  The list of heavy-hitter winemakers who’ve embraced Biodynamic farming goes on and on.  In fact, if I had an ever-ticking stopwatch like the one at Union Square, it just might accurately reflect the number of biodynamic wineries popping up each day.

I recently had a piece published on Palate Press entitled, “Biodynamic Vineyards: Cosmic Bridge or the Turf of Witch Doctors?“, which has lead to some interesting reactions (see the “comments” section).

The word “biodynamic” has been bandied about the biz for years and, while mostly misunderstood, it has become a buzz word in the wine world.   As consumers get more “green-savvy” and clamor for the latest and greatest, most organic and eco-friendly foods and wines, one sees it and hears it everywhere.

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BrewYork, March 2010 photo by Joe Postma

Something special happens when people clink a glass or break bread together.  It’s primal.

I was reminded of this when I read a post on Simplybeer.com called “Beer People are Good People”.  Peter, the author, made the point that some of the most generous people he’s come across are in the beer world.  And it got me thinking…what if it’s not the love of beer that bonded them together, but the fact that he probably had shared a pint with them in the past?

I recently met Peter, along with a diverse group of homebrewers, beer bloggers and all around hop-geeks at a monthly meeting of a group called “BrewYork“.  Never having spoken in person, I was a bit apprehensive sitting down at a table with a large group who seemed to know each other quite well, and I was a bit nervous.  Would we get along?  Would we have anything to talk about?  Would I would have to shank a fool?

I brought my requisite two beers and sat down timidly.  And in mere moments, the conversation was flowing.  I soon thought, these are my people!  Our eyes were eagerly darting around the table at the bottles of beer like kids voraciously scanning their presents under the tree, and the excitement was palpable.  We were in search of new beers, new flavors and new friends.   And over the next few hours, we formed a bond.  But was it the love of beer that bonded us or the experience of drinking together?

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Like any good Irishman, I gave homage to the beer on St Patrick’s Day (and, like any good Irishman, it didn’t involve green food coloring).  But unlike a good Irishman, it didn’t involve Stout or the hailing of the all-powerful Guinness.  It involved Bavaria.  And for posterity sake, i decided to film the event.  Little did I know at the time, but my fair wife would have other plans for the final video…

While completely inappropriate timing for St Patrick’s Day, I dove in to taste five Bavarian beers in an attempt to source a couple of new ones for my lists at Hearth and Terroir.

Pretty much a world away from the styles and customs of Irish beer, Bavaria is in a world of its own.  The largest state in Germany, Bavaria lies in the Southwest of Germany, and calls the beer-soaked steets of Munich its capital.

The following were the beers: Continue Reading »

Ah Mezcal, poor Mezcal, so misunderstood.
For decades, you sit there, collecting dust,
a bottle, a worm, no one will drink.
Then the rare occasion, someone is dared,
the bottle is opened, passed around,
every drop is gone, even the worm,
it doesn’t end well.
Ah, but then I saw it, the bottle behind,
hidden from the Gringos, saved for the Oaxacans,
for the occasion of the day, they say,
“Para todo mal, Mezcal. Para todo bien, también.”

(“For all things bad Mezcal. For all things good, as well.”)

Welcome to the new age of Mezcal. A lot has changed and, yet, everything has stayed the same. It comes from a tradition of family artisanship handed down from father to son.

With few exceptions, this is a spirit that is produced the same way it was 400 years ago; it comes from the earth and the people, from tradition and reverence for the land. And the worm?  A marketing gimmick from the 1950’s to mask the chemical taste of poorly-produced mezcal.

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Quadrupel, Malheur 12°, Brouwerij De Landtsheer NV, Buggenhout, Belgium

(12.0% alc)

The Belgians don’t pussyfoot around with their beer.  Not only is their country regarded as the Holy Grail for beer lovers, but they have a penchant for naming their beers with an ironic sense of danger that will draw a gasp from the most hardened nun.

Why name your beer “Adam’s White Light IPA” when you came name it after the Devil (Duvel), Lucifer, Satan or after a brutally debilitating case of alcohol withdrawal that causes a physical onslaught (Delirium Tremens)?  That’s right, people, walk on the dark side with the Belgians!  Ride the razor’s edge to hell!  Drink the devil’s saliva!

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Our latest homebrew: Penicillin Ale

They say that any day brewing is a good day.  I couldn’t agree more (well, except for all that pesky sanitizing—that can be a real bitch).  However, a good day brewing can go sour.  And for us this weekend, it did.

Dead yeast?  Nope.  A broken carboy smashed all over our apartment?  Nope.  A boil-over volcano that dumped hot, syrupy mess all over our stove top?  God, I wish.  No, my friends, we were bested by a biological enemy.

Watch our video to see the thrilling conclusion…let’s just say its best to use fresh ingredients.  Oh, and refrigeration.  Refrigeration is important.  Especially when your NYC apartment is hotter than Havana on an August afternoon.
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