Pliny the Elder fan climbs Mt. Everest on beer alone

It’s that time of year again.

The time when the die-hard homebrewers sit back with a cold pint, reminisce over their favorite beers and put pen to paper for a legendary vote of epic proportions.

Bragging rights will be forever held, children will defend the honor of their brewmaster dads in schoolyards around the world and breweries will be invaded by topless groupies looking for autographs from the legends, themselves.

For the past 8 years, Zymurgy magazine has asked homebrewers to vote on their top 20 commercially available beers available in the US.

As I wrote in my post of this ranking last year, if you have any doubt who is best to judge today’s commercial beers other than the homebrewers who tinker away in basements and garages across the country, think again.  We are maniacal in our passion, attuned to the finest nuance of barley and capable of smashing bottles with a mere stare.

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Pic courtesy of Dylan Cross (dylancross.com) for WSJ online (click to view Dylan's site)

“Oo la la…who is that dashing American in the leather jacket?”

“Why that’s Captain Sidecar, mademoiselle.  But you be careful with his kind.”

The Hôtel Ritz is one of the grandest, most opulent hotels in the world.  Built in 1898 in the heart of Paris, its bar saw the likes of Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway on a regular basis.  Perhaps Jay Gatsby even entertained Daisy in a side booth.  Heard the term “ritzy”?  Yep, it started here.

When World War I ended, Paris was flooded with victorious and jubilent soldiers returning from all manner of foxholes and unspeakable carnage.  The streets were alive with joy and the bars were packed with heros and their newly-freed admirers.

It is rumored that in this prestigious bar of the Hôtel Ritz, the Sidecar cocktail was first created for an American Captain that was whisked around the city by motorcycle sidecar.  (But as with many classic cocktails, others claim its origin, and some say it first saw the light at the Buck’s Club in London).

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$30 (Includes 4 glasses of Riesling)
$15 (Music only)
 

Prepare yourselves for an event that will change lives, hearts and minds. 

Four amazing bands chosen for their high acidity, elegant concentration of fruit and incredible sense of place. 

The Bands: 

(Click their names to hear why you don’t wanna miss this): 

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Photo courtesy of The Bollard

As the Gulf Coast wakes up to another morning of promises from their good friend, BP, the world waits to see if their latest containment cap scheme will finally stop the gushing oil.

After 83 days of being pounded by black crude, the Louisiana Bayou has been sent through the ringer.  Add to that, the after-effects of Hurricane Katrina are still present and we’ve got ourselves a region in need of a stiff drink.  This Classic Cocktail Tuesday is devoted to you, Gulf Coast.  I give you the Bijou for the Bayou.

Pronounced “Bee-zhoo”, the Bijou appeared on the cocktail scene in the late 1800’s.  Meaning “jewel” in French, it is a full-flavored, herbal dynamo that is certainly not for the faint of heart.

A classic spin on the sweet martini, the Bijou has seen a number of variations over the last century, often with bartenders scaling back the Chartreuse and Italian Vermouth to modernize it and bring down the sweetness factor.

When Rachel Maddow made one for Jimmy Falon last year on his TV show, the amount of Green Chartreuse flying off the shelves in this country no doubt increased ten-fold.  And thus, those buyers met a very special spirit…

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Well, looky looky, we’ve got ourselves a good ol’ bar crawl.

That’s right, folks, we (the lunatics of Terroir Wine Bar) have cooked up a new venture for this year’s Summer of Riesling and brought along some of our Riesling-loving friends.  Get in on the action and all-hail the greatest wine grape known to man.

How the Crawl Works
Start Date:  July 7th——Finish Date:  August 7th

  1. Slip on a pair of your favorite shoes
  2. Walk, bus, train, fly or crawl to participating locations
  3. Order a glass of the Riesling listed for that venue and get a stamp in your trusty passport
  4. Thank the earth for offering up such liquid bounty
  5. Move on to the next location
  6. Repeat praises of the grape & kiss your neighbor

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Courtesy of John Thile. Click to see more of his pics on Flickr (gilrain).

There was a time when pilots were heroes and the nation was fascinated by their exploits in the sky.

Captain Sully Sullenberger aside (you are a prince among men, sir), we’ve moved into a new realm of hero.  Like Justin Bieber, for instance–I mean, like, wow, how does he get those bangs so perfect?  But in the 1930’s, men like Charles Lindbergh fascinated the country when he flew the Spirit of St. Louis (a single-engine, single-seat craft) from New York to Paris in a 3,600 mile voyage of bravery.

This week’s classic cocktail is in honor of these bold heroes (real heroes) like Lindbergh, who, if my guess is correct, tipped back a cold Aviation the moment his feet hit the ground.

Using the once near-impossible-to-find liqueur, Crème de Violette, the Aviation was first mentioned in print in 1916 in “Recipes for Mixed Drinks” by Hugo Ensslin, who was a New York bartender at the Hotel Wallick in Times Square.  Additionally, the use of Maraschino liqueur (itself a once-rare ingredient), makes this cocktail one that had nearly slipped into oblivion but has flown back on the scene and can be found at any serious cocktail bar.

As mentioned, Crème de Violette was once as hard to find as a wee leprechaun’s elusive pot of gold.  But a great version from Rothman & Winter has become readily available.  Produced in Austria, it is made by macerating Queen Charlotte and March Violets (which grow high in the Alps) in a brandy distillate with a touch of cane sugar for sweetness.

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Survival Canteen (Photo by Kat Bryant)

We came by boat.  We drank with tiny cups.  We conquered the crowds?

Brewfest 2010 has come and gone.  For some, it was an afternoon of craft beer heaven.  For others, it was like being trapped on an island of thirsty, angry savages with the mere mirage of food and beer only on the horizon.

This video documents our experience:

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Pic courtesy of The Manhattan Project-Cocktails

A bullfight is the most hypnotically awful event I have ever seen.  I’m glad I went that hot afternoon in Seville, but have no desire to return.

Strangely elegant in its mismatched death, one of the haunting images that has stuck with me is that of the bull’s blood being mixed in with the sand by a team of horses pulling rakes across the stadium floor.  It is done after every bull’s death to reset the stage for the next lucky victim.

That being said, and hopefully an image that greets you into your day (yea bull death!), I give you this week’s classic cocktail: Blood and Sand.

Named for the famous Rudolph Valentino movie of 1922 (and said to be Mr. Valentino’s favorite role of his career), the Blood and Sand is one of the few Scotch-based cocktails on the roster of classics.

The key to this drink is the use of the cherry brandy.  While there are a number of cherry-based spirits on the market (with Kirschwasser being the most well-known and a dry spirit), we actually need to swing the pendulum in the other direction to land on a sweet, cherry-flavored liqueur like the mesmerizing Cherry Heering.

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North Williamsburg.  On a rather desolate block, a mini-Mecca for libation lovers awaits in two-story glory.

Be you beer geek, cocktail purist or refined wino, this is your place.  All under one gloriously designed roof and with a level of hospitality that will warm any NY’ers heart.

The Counting Room, at 44 Barry Street in Brooklyn, plays to many strengths, and is testament to the consumate professionals behind its multi-beveraged-assault on the senses.

A cocktail program born from the classics of the 1860’s and spun into the modern world, a wine program that is diverse, current and savvy, a beer program that celebrates the craftsmen and a level of food that promises to please the refined.  It has it all.

I recently sat down with co-owner and mixology wizard, Vincent Favella, for a couple of cocktails and got the low-down on what makes The Counting Room tick.  Watch the video below: Continue Reading »

Pic courtesy of Drinking the World

Spin the bottle?  No, baby, spin the bar!  Why play childish games when we can ride the booze carousel?

The Hotel Monteleone in downtown New Orleans, not only has a revolving bar, but is the place to get down to some serious libation business.  Today, it’s the home to Tales of the Cocktail, the five day drinkfest that leaves a ripple in the time space continuum each year it goes off.  Many a forgotten evening has happened here while spinning on the carousel…

But let’s forget the crowds of today and travel back to the cobblestone streets of the French Quarter in the 1930’s.  It is there that this week’s classic cocktail, the Vieux Carré (the French name for the Quarter), was created by the Hotel Monteleone’s head bartender, Walter Bergeron.

Originally produced by monks at an abbey in Normandy (which was later destroyed during the French Revolution) Bénédictine is an herbal, aromatic liqueur said to be made from 27 herbs and spices.  But who am I to say?  Legend has it that only three people are allowed to know the recipe at any given time.  Regardless, it is the touch that brings this drink into harmony.

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Watkins Glen State Park

Can the spirit of the land be captured in a bottle?  Can time, geography and culture be turned into liquid?  Yes it can.

The Finger Lakes is a place of magic with rolling countrysides, vineyards, orchards, lakes and hamlets that remind me more of Ireland than the US.  And there, Finger Lakes Distilling is cranking out some incredible spirits.

Being from Colorado, I’m a sucker for the outdoors and if left to my own druthers, I’d disappear into the Rockies to live off the land like Ralph Waldo Emerson did at Walden Pond.  So when it came time for my wife and I to pick a wedding locale, Colorado was my top (and only) choice.  I was resolute that nowhere else possessed the natural majesty.  And then I traveled to the Finger Lakes…we had found our spot.

Composed of eleven lakes, the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York is the largest wine region in the state and because of its sheer volume of fruit, makes New York #3 in total grape production in the US.  And there, amongst the wineries of Seneca Lake, lies the regions only stand-alone distillery.  This is where the magic happens.

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Originally created in Florence at the Baglioni Hotel in the 1920’s, the Negroni was the regular drink of a bar customer named Camillo Negroni.

Italians are nuts about bitters and Camillo couldn’t get enough of the mouth-watering sensation of Campari.  So much so, that his name lives on in bars around the world.

Campari is an aperitif made by infusing bitter herbs, aromatic plants and fruits into alcohol and water.  It gives an unmistakable zip to your drinks and snaps your palate into attention like a Tuscan drill sergeant.  (Or at least one wearing a velvet glove while slapping you across the mouth).

The perfect time for this drink?  Now!  Or before a meal.  Whenever you feel your palate needs a good wake up call, just play this military revelry on your trumpet.  Here’s how…

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"D-Bag with Crystal Beer Mug" (photo by Kat Bryant)

Well, hip to the hop to the hippity hop.  Looks like I got me a wee bit of press last week.

Maggie Hoffman, of Serious Eats, interviewed me about my job and, among other things, my thoughts on beer lists in restaurants.  (Mom will be proud to hear her son raving about craft beer, walking through raw sewage in the bowels of NYC and finding teenagers shooting up in the bathroom).

Read the article by clicking here: Serious Eats: “A Pint With: David Flaherty, Terroir/Hearth”

In other news, Grapes & Grains surpassed 3,000 subscribers this weekend and I’m ecstatic.  Let’s look at some more stats…

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"Welcome to Dexter, kids. It's time to get funked up"

There’s some funky shit going on in the US craft beer scene, and one brewery is leading the charge.  Located far from the usual suspects on the West coast, the East Coast and the Colorado beer belt, one must travel to the tiny town of Dexter, Michigan (population of around 3,000), to find Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales. They are jamming in a bold direction that has beer geeks atwitter from coast to coast.

After hearing about them a few months ago, and then seeing them top the NY Times’ list of top Belgian-style ales with their Oro de Calabaza, I was desperate to get my palate wet with its liquid gold.  And once anointed with its funkiness, I ordered a case immediately and had it sent to the restaurant for next day delivery.  I was bridled in like a chariot rider to his wild stallion and became an instant advocate.

Whereas most brewers’ number one concern is eradicating all microbial beasties through intense sanitization, Jolly Pumpkin embraces the wee devils like an orphanage welcoming castaways in the night.  In an ever-increasing niche in the beer world, wine barrels are finding a second life in a beautiful communion where wine meets beer.  And the matchmaker at the helm?  Ron Jeffries.

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Blanc de Franc (100% Cabernet Franc), Couly-Dutheil, NV (but really 2008), Loire Valley

Abracadabra, you've been punked

The magicians at Couly-Dutheil have performed a trick that baffles the eye.

They pulled back their cloak, placed a bunch of red Cabernet Franc grapes behind it, said an incantation to the spirits of the Loire, and, walla kazaam, a le vini, out popped an innocent looking glass with a liquid in it as clear as water.

Hypnotic notes of strawberry cream peppered with yeasty, Champagne notes beckoned me ever closer to its grasp.  My eyes kept deceiving me, as I looked in awe at the clear wine in my glass.  Was it a red?  A rose?  Surely not a white wine.

“But you’re made from red grapes,” I shouted!  “What the hell has gotten into you?”  It sat motionless like a confident harlot knowing her appearance alone was strong enough to keep me riveted.

Look closely, at the heart of the map lies Chinon (in green)

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